N_Reparaties - N_Repairs (20.07.2010 )
Problem: N Electrical Equipment Temperature Sender
In fact the problem was only that Luc, while reassembling his Sabra didn't find his temperature sender anymore.
While looking up the temperature sender in manual and alternative parts list I noticed that no one had ever documented the thing.
As he heard which car it was for, he cancelled my order and suggested other ones, which I bought.
gauge showing 100 ((esteemed between 90 and 110) temp was 102°C
At ambient temperature(25°C ??) the senders showed a resistance of some 750 Ohms.
Might want to redo the test over a 7810-driven Voltage regulator (might be more precise) but in the end it showed that the temperature measurement of the Sabra was quite precise so I shouldn't (have had to) worry about high temperatures not knowing how precise the gauge was.
Jacques has done some research: says recent ordering number is GTR 104. Used in Mini and TR4(Triumph number 131062).
Not checked: but this might be a correct conversion table:
Probleem: N Electrical Equipment Wiring from loom (frame) to front lights
Shows one can't keep on repairing the repairs.
Probleem: N Electrical Equipment Wiper motor not Parking
Just repaired the wiper motor of the Sabra. It worked well in both speeds for a (short) while after rebuilt, then suddenly did not park any more.
all wires checked and Ok
Finally shorted the brown wire ( where it takes earth for parking) that goes from the little park switch directly to the housing of the wiper assembly and ... it parked again.
After more investigation it became clear that the little copper plate that is mechanically fastened (like riveted) to the little plate were the brown wire is soldered on, did not make enough contact !!!
I put a point of solder on it, so that it is soldered to the metal plate with the brown wire , instead of just a mechanical connection and everything works perfectly now.
Just anything can happen with those wiper motors ,but they are always repairable, so it seems.
Probleem: N Electrical Equipment Benzinemeter-Thermometer
Al een hele tijd problemen met de indicaties van de thermometer en de benzinemeter. Nu moet je bij alle auto's leren "Hoe leeg is leeg? en Hoe heet is heet? voor de thermometer maar bij de Sabra moest je je dan ook nog herinneren hoevele toeren de motor draaide de laatste minuten en hoeveel electriciteitsverbruikers óp stonden de laatste minuten.
Geleerd (zie electrisch schema pagina N13); er is een afzonderlijke voltage regulator voor de waterthermometer en de benzinemeter. Dat ding was dus duidelijk stuk. Binnengegeven bij een garagist die voor een nieuw zou zorgen... de man slaagde er in het origineel te verliezen...
Voltage regulator heeft als bedoeling deze twee circuits op een lagere spanning
te laten werken (10V)...daardoor wordt de aanduiding van de twee meters
onafhankelijk(er) van de spanning op het electrisch systeem... 13,5V wanneer de
dynamo bijlaadt...11,5V als de dynamo niet bijlaadt en er toch stroom moet
geleverd worden door de batterij.
Oplossing... niet 100% maar stukken beter:
originele voltage-regulator zit onder het dashbord achter de thermometer
bovenaan tegen de verstevigingsrib geschroefd.
Years I've been having problems with them.
See electrical scheme: these two gauges have a separate Voltage regulator because if they would get the normal working voltage they would indicate different values with idelling engine (12V) or engine running at higher RPM's (14,xxV).
This Voltage regulator didn't work properly on my Sabra. I really found out recently. Although it was obvious that engine speed influenced the gauges severely.
the temperature gauge was getting higher than I liked, I allways did like
everybody: switch on the heater fan to provide extra cooling.
then I noticed that when I put on the heater fan ! even when the heater valve
was closed ! temperature gauge dropped 5°C.
I bought a new?? Voltage regulator, didn't cure the problem.
Anyway: bought a new Voltage regulator with Carwise. Readings where independent of the engine RPM now, but much too low: i.e.just after refuelling the gauge showed half-full (half empty for pessimists) and temperature never rose beyond 70°C though my themostate only opens at 82°C. My last otter switch switches on at 92° and it was ON several times when the gauge showed 70°C
Then I noticed that the Voltage regulator has an adjusting screw on it. The regulator works with a bimetal so when starting the gauges go too high (bimetal has to warm up) but now (having turned the regulator-screw one turn to the right) temperature reads constant 78 in normal driving conditions and fuel is over 3/4 when full. So I guess turning right a little further would get the temperature to a guessed 85° and fuel tank to full when full.
Will have to find-out where on the fuel-gauge is "empty" (guess it will be sllightly above 0) but temperature is more important.
The Voltage-regulator works in a long-time-ago-way by switching off tension when the bimetal is warm enough and switching on after the bimetal has cooled so it must be influenced by the ambient temperature and by total current consumption (full fuel tank will give lower temperatures) but quite precise will be good enough for a Sabra I guess). The gauges are too slow to follow the rather fast voltage switching (recent digital Voltage meters have also problems... they show 4V or 10V. On older analogue meters you see the voltage needle go up to over 12 and drop to zero.
putting my Sabra back on the road in 2000; though the engine ran (in my garage)
normally I decided to replace all of the ignition system, just in case. So
replaced sparking plugs, wires, contactpoints, condensator, coil. What I
didn't know is that coils had changed over the years: nowadays coils expect 9V
under normal working conditions, the Sabras original coil expected (and got) 12V
(and in the shop I just asked for "a coil").
As I doubted the fuel tanks, fuel lead, fuel pump, fuel filter, floaters, carburettors I used to carry a pump to blow bike-tubes and every time the engine stopped I disconnected the fuel leads and blew them through direction carburettors and direction fuel tank. This used to take some 15 minutes and afterwards I could drive again for some time (the 15 minutes were enough for the coil to cool down).
A lended 12V coil made the car run wonderfully and learned me that there's the two (above mentioned) types of coils.
12V coil worked fine, as did the 9V with a "ballast"-resitance in
series with it.
N8 Ignition (Electronic)
Not that I had problems with my ignition anymore but a friend advised me to buy the pertronics electronic ignition. He advised me to take Ignitor II as Ignitor I can't stand it if you forget to switch off ignition. On a fair I learned that the pertronics II wasn't made for Sabra-like distributors and would never be made by lack of space in positive earth cars. So I was persuaded to buy an Ignitor I type LU-142AP12.
The car drove properly, with the new ignition mounted as it came.
I notice no difference except for the fact that I won't ever have to replace my contact-points again.
Replacing contact-points and condensator with the ignitor was simple and straightforward. Only problem is that in the Sabra-handbook the description of the timing-trimming is based on the opening of the contact-points. To be certain the timing is correct you need a stroboscope with the ignitor, but that's a once-and-never-again-procedure. I lended a stroboscope and put the advantage to +/- 7°.
N Wiring diagram colours
Need exell to open it. Thanks Geoff
N Distributor - cleaning up
Mail of bel mij als je tips, hints of kennis op dit gebied hebt... 03/236.00.84