TYRE CARE AND MAINTENANCE
The four road wheels are the bolted type 4J x 15m
fitted with 155 x 15 Pirelli Cintura sports tyres. Systematic and
correct tyre maintenance is important
for the road-worthiness of the vehicle. Tyres must be able to
sustain the weight of a loaded vehicle and the tyre pressures should be
checked at least once a week. Much harm can be done to the vehicle and its tyres by failure
to inspect the tyres regularly for correct inflation.
Front 21 lb
Rear 21 lb
For hard driving and prolonged high speeds:
Front 21 lb
Rear 23 lb
The tyres fitted are the conventional tubed type and
renewal is easily effected by pressing the tyre head into the wall and at
the same time, drawing the opposite side
over the rim by means of a tyre lever. Ensure that the tube is
fully deflated and that the tyre head is not adhering to the wheel rim.
Whenever possible use tyres which have a moulded line for accuracy of
fitting. If the tyre is correctly mounted the line will be equidistant
from the rim al points.
In order to equalise tyre wear it is recommended that
the wheels are periodically changed round in the following sequence:
Spare to left front
left front to left rear
left rear to right front
right front to right rear
right rear to spare.
Tyres should be regularly inspected and all embedded
objects such as glass, nails etc.. removed before they work through and
penetrate the tube. lt is
essential that oil (paraffin particularly) and grease should not be
allowed to collect on the garage floor, as
their presenee is injurious to rubber. Should oil be discovered,
remove with petrol moistened cloth.
Replacement, using the spare wheel is the usual and
most convenient method for overcoming punctures. There are, however, instances when a spare wheel is not
readily available, and repair is effected by using a repair outfit.
If a puncture is suspected, check for air leakage by immersing the
inflated tube in water, marking the position of the leak. Having defined
the damaged area, the puncture can then be mended, provided that the
instructions on the repair outfit are followed.
CHANGING A WHEEL
Make sure the handbrake is fully on and, as an
additional precaution place a chock under one of the wheels. To remove the
front wheel place the jack under the centre of the front cross member,
jack up, remove the wheel cap using a screwdriver to prise it frons the
wheel. Unscrew the four conical-ended nuts securing the wheel to the front
hub with the wheel brace supplied in the tool kit.
Remove the rear wheels as outlined above, but the jack must be
positioned under the main chassis member. After jacking the vehicle down,
and before removing the jack, make a final check on the tightness. A
similar check should be made after the first 300 miles.
When replacing a wheel it should be noted that the
conical end of the nuts screw on to the stud first and all threads are
right-hand. Each nut should be tightened alternately otherwise the wheel
may not run true.
In the case of wire wheels the removal and replacement
is as follows:
leather mallet or similar tool to slacken the winged hub nut which secures
the wheel to its splined shaft and carefully withdraw the wheel. The replacement of the wire wheel is the reverse of the
procedure out-lined above making sure that the splines are well greased
and hub nuts secure.
Note. ---The right-hand hub caps have a left-hand or
anti-clockwise tbread and care should be taken when removing or replacing
wheels to ensure that the hub caps are not accidently over tightened or
slickened by hammer blows on the wrong wing of the cap.
FRONT WHEEL AND WHEEL BEARINGS
The front wheels are mounted on tapered roller
bearings. and after approximately 5.000 miles, bearing lubriecation is advisable.
It may also he necessary to adjust the bearings.
To test them. jack-up, and grasp the wheel at the top
and bottom of the tyre and rock it to and fro.
Do not be confused by any possible looseness which may
exist in various steering connections. If excessive play exists the
bearings should be adjusted.
Remove the wheel and prise off the Domed Dust Cap.
Withdraw the split pin which secures the castellated nut and unscrew.
Remove the thrustwasher and tapered roller bearings, thorougbly clean
these components and regrease.
For full dismantling. Re-assembly and Lubrication
details see the section devoted to Front hub ad Suspension.
the bearing followed by the tbrust 'D' washer and castelated nut. Tighten
the nut, at the same time rotating the wheels-, continue tightening until
heavy wheel drag is felt. Then turn back the nut one flat at a time until
the wheel is perfectly free. with just perceptible float. This can best be
determined with the wheel in position. Fit new split pin and replace the
The following precautions should be taken to ensure
maximum tyre life:
Avoid under or over-inflation.
Avoid sudden stops or fierce acceleration.
Avoid high speeds. particularly when cornering.
Avoid kerbing and other causes of impact.
Change tyres round regularly.
Keep brakes correctly adjusted.
Keep the tyres clear of oil and paraffin
A 'Shelley' car jack is supplied with every vehicle.
The bonnet must first be raised to give access to the front jacking
points. The front suspension arms carry tunnels into which the toe of the
jack arm is fitted. Operation of the ratchet jack wrench will then raise
the car. To lift the rear of the car, the jack is fitted into the
appropriate tunnel which is located under the lower edge of the rear wing.
See Fig. 1. To lift the car the ratchet wrench is turned clockwise, to